Timor-Leste culture

The art of dance

Dancing in Timor-Leste

No matter where you are in Timor-Leste or what you’re doing, there is always a good chance that you might stumble upon dancing. The Timorese love to dance. Everyone from the youngest of children to the oldest of women likes nothing better than to have a boogie – and all they need to get them started is a drum.

The tebedai dance is a traditional Timorese dance performed on ceremonial occasions. Usually two male drummers will bang out a beat on a single drum while some of the older women clang gongs, spades or anything metallic than makes a noise when hit. Some of the older dancers might be kitted out in traditional Timorese dress complete with tais (fabric made by traditional Timorese weaving). Everybody forms a circle, linking arms and marching while singing.

During other ceremoneis the men might hop around and groove to the beat while the old women shuffle about and wave pieces of tais. Some people also dance with leaves and branches, waving them in the air.

While the tebedai is comes from old local tradition, Timor’s next generation of dancers have their own moves. A Timorese disco is one of the loveliest spectacles you could ever wish to see. Booming soundsystems belch out Portuguese pop songs. After spending a few weeks in Timor it’s difficult not to become familiar with the locals’ favorite songs; there seems to be only about half a dozen that meet the Timorese level of approval.

More dancing, from Manetu in Ainaro

At a Timorese disco, a few people might bop along by themselves, but the majority of the action is done in pairs. At the beginning of each song, boys and girls will give a nod or a gesture to someone they want to dance with and the duo will then meet on the dance floor.

The boy’s right arm goes lightly around the girl’s waste and the girl usually rests her left hand on the boy’s shoulder. The free hands meet outstretched like a human teapot and the dancing begins. No matter how fast or slow the song, the feet move in unison and the dancers slowly shuffle around with the male leading.

Feet move in a left-left-right-left-left-right pattern, repeated over and over until the song ends, at which point the couples disperse and move to the edges of the room to wait for the next song. The process repeats with everyone choosing new partners.

Foreigners are welcome to dance at Timorese discos, but getting the groove takes a little practice. If you ever hear music at night, follow that sound and see where you end up.